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Towing a Herreshoff America: Remove the Rudder? 2 D. MacPherson I have an HA18 and I always remove my rudder and stow it in the bed of my pickup when I tow it back and forth from the marina. I do that for the same reasons mentioned in Peter Knowlton's reply. I think my rudder may weigh a bit more than 50 pounds. I can lift it off of the boat and put it into the bed of the truck myself, but I would prefer to have some help. Oh and I always end up with some bottom paint transfer so a blue tarp in the pick up bed helps with that and makes it easier for me to slide it into place.
by M. Perry
Saturday, November 9, 2019
Looking for centerboard design dimensions for Molly 17 0 A. Cochran Greetings: I recently purchased a 17’ Molly Catboat (built in Richmond, CA 1988).  Much to everyone’s surprise (owner and buyer) a diver determined that the centerboard was missing!  I’m looking for another owner of the same boat with drawings of the centerboard (measurements or a pattern - or someone willing to make one) to have a new fiberglass centerboard shaped and installed.  Fortunately, she has a keel, but we know she’ll sail better with a centerboard!  The boat is located in the San Francisco Bay area. Please contact me at  Thanks you!
by A. Cochran
Friday, October 11, 2019
Hull number HA18 3 J. Porter Mine is on the port side of transome exterior
by J. Porter
Friday, September 20, 2019
Outboard for HA18 motor well 2 J. Porter Thank you! Are you able to use the part of the cockpit seats that covers the motor or is the four stroke top end to tall.
by J. Porter
Thursday, September 19, 2019
Marshall 22 engine vents 6 M. Poor On my 22 I currently only have one vent hose hooked up. It's attach to the Cowl vent which is facing forward. The other Cowl vent is facing aft and the hose has been removed. The idea is air is forced in thru the forward facing Cowl vent down the hose to low in the bilge. The heat from the engine rises and exits from the Cowl vent with no hose. I've been running like this for the past few years without issue.
by T. Caro
Wednesday, September 4, 2019
Sail cover for my HA18 3 M. Perry Hi folks, thanks for the good advice, including the memory related tip...! I did have Thurston make a cover for me, and Neil Thurston even offered to take some measurements directly from Pixie at her slip, (I keep her in Portsmouth, one town over from Thurston's location in Bristol). These folks have always been awesome to work with, they refurbed my original flag sail a few years ago. I will definitely buy my new sail from them when I can afford it.
by M. Perry
Wednesday, August 14, 2019
Small Lapstrake from Plans 0 K. Lewis Are there any building plans for small lapstrake catboats out there? 16 feet or less.   Thanks Kent
by K. Lewis
Monday, July 15, 2019
Sanderling Wedges and Headstay 1 N. Truscott Congratulations on your new boat! I ordered a set of replacement wedges directly from Geoff Marshall. That is the way to go. It will save you a lot of time and energy.Take a look at the maintenance tips section on the Marshall website. There is a paragraph that explains the procedure. You can give them a good bash. Use a white rubber mallet. There are also two wedges that go into the mast step. Joe
by J. Seymour
Monday, July 8, 2019
Mast Hoop Rigging 3 T. Moorhoff Attached is photo oof friends hoop. Older boats used a bronze bow shackle , newer ones use stainless steel. I used tarred synthetic  cod line for my lashing, other us heavy waxed serving thread. About 8 turns through shackle  and hoop, then about 4 turns at 90 degrees to those between shackle and hoop, finish with square knot or surgions  knot.
by P. Knowlton
Tuesday, July 2, 2019
Converting a catboat to electric power 5 K. Sloan Turns out my little Tecumseh HAS gone the distance and I have taken it out of the boat. I plan to sell the boat and am looking for info the help the potential buyers to assess the cost/difficulty of repowering with an outboard or electric setup. Essentially something to get in and out of a boat landing. We are mostly lake sailors here with fairly short cruises and used to dealing with crowded landings and lots of impatient powerboats.Thanks, Ken
by K. Sloan
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
where is the bulkhead/cockpit joint on a marhall 22? 3 R. Roddewig The seam basically runs along where T.'s hole is. The cockpit is essentially a fiberglass tub placed in, so it is the seam joining the horizontal surface of the cockpit floor to the vertical surfaces of the CB trunk and the cabin bulkhead. To access that seam you must remove any caulking around the aft CB trunk (where it sticks out in to the cockpit by your scuppers), and you can go up through the ballast boxes (steps) and reach back and up. I repaired the leak in mine my by glassing the entire seam in, as mine was tabbed in and sealed with marine caulk around the CB trunk (but mine is an '82, so there could be slight differences here). My leak was right where the junction of the cockpit floor and the CB trunk are, along a seam that appears solid. A leak there however will drip into the upper bilge area as you saw, so unless it is getting so full that it spills over into the ballast boxes (which have limber holes forward to under the floor) it's probably not the source. This is possible though (the previous owner of mine let this happen all the time over a few years and almost destroyed the floor). Some thoughts (apologies if you have tried already)- Is your mast taped and covered with the boot? Portholes? If they are original the seals are getting pretty old. My leaky porthole gave zero (and I mean zero) indication of a leak (no marks, discoloration etc). I found it when it was raining. Handrails, hardware, basically any place where the cabin top has something going through it can be a source. Can you run a hose over the top of the boat with someone inside or sit in the boat when it is raining? Good luck and let us know what you find!
by M. Poor
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
Free Used Boat Part Search Now Available for Catboaters 4 D. McQuilken For you newbies, this post dates from 2015 and we are still in business (if you can call providing a free service a business)BTW - Start with this home page not the old link:
by D. McQuilken
Friday, May 31, 2019
Nanni 2.10 Engine Oil 2 P. Jordan Thanks Marc!
by P. Jordan
Friday, May 24, 2019
Rub Rail Replacement (non teak) 0 A. Loggers Our '65 Sanderling's rub rail is in need of replacement.  Prior to Marshall's fine addition of teak rub rails, older vessels may have a rub rail of vinyl or plastic material screwed every 12" or so around the boat's perimeter to hide the junction of hull and deck...and perform some preventative function.  Now, I'm in search for a reasonably priced (i.e. non stainless steal) option.  If you've replaced the rub rail, please share your material and experience.  Current pics attached (including the creative wood section repair).  Fisheries Supply in Seattle has a selection.
by A. Loggers
Monday, April 22, 2019
Marshall Sandpiper centerboard pennant 2 G. Schuchart Yes, I'm faced with replacing my Sanderling pennant and was seeking ideas.  W/o reading this tread or viewing Marshall Marine's photo  of the kind gentleman crew replacing the pennant while the centerboard swung below the raised vessel...I wouldn't have heaved and hoed so much. But I did, and Voilà! An eye appeared and I struggled to get this flat screwdriver to support...Geoff is probably cringing, for I suspect some unlucky soles have broken/chipped fiberglass where my screwdriver now rests.  Luckily...mine didn't an hasn't. Now to splicing...  What type line did folks use? (*pic is of original owner's work requiring replacement.)
by A. Loggers
Monday, April 22, 2019
Brass care/polish 1 P. Plate The "brass' you refer to is most likely bronze. Over time bronze develops a patina, some find it the charm of that type of hardware generally found on traditionally rigged boats.You can polish it, some say you can even apply a "varnish but I have to ask. Why create more maintenance?
by C. Huberman
Tuesday, April 9, 2019
Questions concerning HA 18 5 L. Bost Hi,I've been restoring my HA 18 for 3 years. I built a tabernacle which, although wonderful for raising the mast, is larger in diameter and has swivel bolt heads that interfered with the existing mast hoops. As a temporary solution, I made parrels using rigging wire and cheap wooden balls from a craft store. They attach to the sail with small climbers snap fasteners. They have worked so well that I haven't bothered replacing them. Easy inexpensive and strong. If you're interested, I'll send you a sketch.
by G. Damerel
Thursday, February 7, 2019
Yanmar 1gm10 install questions 2 R. Langley Re: Propellor for 1GM10. Noted that your post is few years old, but I have a similar question. My '94 Sanderling has a 1GM10 with a 1" shaft, a 2.62 box, and a 10x12RH 2 blade propellor. I am thinking of replacing the propellor and found some discrepancies of the size and pitch used in this application. What are other Sanderling-ers using ?
by M. Lieberman
Friday, January 11, 2019
remove my bow sprit to varnish? 2 R. Roddewig Thanks, will do.
by R. Roddewig
Saturday, November 17, 2018
Menger 19 Deck Hatch 2 M. OLeary I'd give Jerry Thompson from Thompson Boat works a call chances are he ether built your boat or knows who did and what the best way to do what you want. here is his number631-889-2918
by E. Dankievitch
Monday, October 15, 2018
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