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Converting a catboat to electric power 5 K. Sloan Turns out my little Tecumseh HAS gone the distance and I have taken it out of the boat. I plan to sell the boat and am looking for info the help the potential buyers to assess the cost/difficulty of repowering with an outboard or electric setup. Essentially something to get in and out of a boat landing. We are mostly lake sailors here with fairly short cruises and used to dealing with crowded landings and lots of impatient powerboats.Thanks, Ken
by K. Sloan
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
Marshall 22 engine vents 1 M. Poor Only have a M-18 with outboard, but have had other inboard engine boats. Best bet is to email Marshall. But in general, forward facing vent hose is air intake for combustion and compartmenr cooling, and should be up near the forward top of engine. Aft facing vent is for exhaust, cooling, and potential expelling of combustable/explosive fumes in bilge , and its hose should terminate low in the bilge (above high water, at least top of pump) and towards aft end of engine. If you have a gasoline engine, the exhaust must have a bilge blower, but most references seem to recommend it for all installations. May be intermittent or continuous operation (check carefully as it affects safety etc).If gas engine, your should be running blower for 4-5 minutes before starting engine.
by P. Knowlton
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
where is the bulkhead/cockpit joint on a marhall 22? 3 R. Roddewig The seam basically runs along where T.'s hole is. The cockpit is essentially a fiberglass tub placed in, so it is the seam joining the horizontal surface of the cockpit floor to the vertical surfaces of the CB trunk and the cabin bulkhead. To access that seam you must remove any caulking around the aft CB trunk (where it sticks out in to the cockpit by your scuppers), and you can go up through the ballast boxes (steps) and reach back and up. I repaired the leak in mine my by glassing the entire seam in, as mine was tabbed in and sealed with marine caulk around the CB trunk (but mine is an '82, so there could be slight differences here). My leak was right where the junction of the cockpit floor and the CB trunk are, along a seam that appears solid. A leak there however will drip into the upper bilge area as you saw, so unless it is getting so full that it spills over into the ballast boxes (which have limber holes forward to under the floor) it's probably not the source. This is possible though (the previous owner of mine let this happen all the time over a few years and almost destroyed the floor). Some thoughts (apologies if you have tried already)- Is your mast taped and covered with the boot? Portholes? If they are original the seals are getting pretty old. My leaky porthole gave zero (and I mean zero) indication of a leak (no marks, discoloration etc). I found it when it was raining. Handrails, hardware, basically any place where the cabin top has something going through it can be a source. Can you run a hose over the top of the boat with someone inside or sit in the boat when it is raining? Good luck and let us know what you find!
by M. Poor
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
Free Used Boat Part Search Now Available for Catboaters 4 D. McQuilken For you newbies, this post dates from 2015 and we are still in business (if you can call providing a free service a business)BTW - Start with this home page not the old link:
by D. McQuilken
Friday, May 31, 2019
Soft deck in cockpit 22 K. Trainor Unfortunately, emergency surgery and a business trip caused me to curtail my spring overhaul. Here are a few photos that I hope will help others. Most of the softness was in the forward section of the sole.  I noticed it when I bought her, so I knew that I would be making the repair eventually.  When I removed the fiberglass, I was glad that I did.  A previous owner added lockers in this area.  Someone had also added a replacement panel at some point.  It can bee seen in the photo that shows part of the companion It appears  to have been painted with some dull grey or white compound.  The replacement panel is still in good shape.  It was not scarfed into the original sole, and appears to have been supported by struts and partners.  The plywood all around it, however, is in very bad shape.  I will cut away all of the plywood that is not solid and replace with a good quality marine plywood.  There was no plywood left under the glass under the seat.  I will cut all of it away, sand it down, and apply new plywood, with two coats of epoxy, and then reglass on top.  I will scarf or step the new joint.  The other photos show that the stringer is gone-- it looks as though someone cut out a section, perhaps to run wiring.  I will take that out and cut a new one, applying two coats of epoxy.  Another stringer has some rot, but appears sound.  I plan to slather on some CPES, followed by two coats of epoxy.   One question goes through my mind-- should I look for more rot that I can't see or feel, or should I cut away until I hit solid wood and sound glass, make the repair, and go sailing? Joe
by J. Seymour
Friday, May 31, 2019
Replacing scupper in M-22 cockpit 0 R. Roddewig Hi sailors I had a leaking drain (scupper) in my cockpit that was contributing to water in the forward bilges under the cabin.  Turned out that the PO had caulked/poly adhesived the backing plate to the underside of the cockpit along with the scupper.  The backing plate had cracked and the whole thing was flexing the leaking.  The photos below show the replacement in case anyone else needs to work on this or has this problem.   First photo shows the backing plate covered with caulk, second after removing the caulk (or probably the other side).  Third is new backing plate with hole for scupper after epoxy coating the oak piece.  Should have epoxied after the hole was in, doh!  The coated with two coats of Petit epoxy paint (including the hole).  And finally installed in the boat with Total Boat thickened epoxy to hold it in and Boat life caulk on the scupper, ready to insert and hook up the hose to the drain.
by R. Roddewig
Wednesday, May 29, 2019
Nanni 2.10 Engine Oil 2 P. Jordan Thanks Marc!
by P. Jordan
Friday, May 24, 2019
Boom crutch length 0 J. Seymour Can anyone tell me the length of a Sanderling's boom crutch?  I, um, lost mine.  
by J. Seymour
Thursday, May 2, 2019
Rub Rail Replacement (non teak) 0 A. Loggers Our '65 Sanderling's rub rail is in need of replacement.  Prior to Marshall's fine addition of teak rub rails, older vessels may have a rub rail of vinyl or plastic material screwed every 12" or so around the boat's perimeter to hide the junction of hull and deck...and perform some preventative function.  Now, I'm in search for a reasonably priced (i.e. non stainless steal) option.  If you've replaced the rub rail, please share your material and experience.  Current pics attached (including the creative wood section repair).  Fisheries Supply in Seattle has a selection.
by A. Loggers
Monday, April 22, 2019
Marshall Sandpiper centerboard pennant 2 G. Schuchart Yes, I'm faced with replacing my Sanderling pennant and was seeking ideas.  W/o reading this tread or viewing Marshall Marine's photo  of the kind gentleman crew replacing the pennant while the centerboard swung below the raised vessel...I wouldn't have heaved and hoed so much. But I did, and VoilĂ ! An eye appeared and I struggled to get this flat screwdriver to support...Geoff is probably cringing, for I suspect some unlucky soles have broken/chipped fiberglass where my screwdriver now rests.  Luckily...mine didn't an hasn't. Now to splicing...  What type line did folks use? (*pic is of original owner's work requiring replacement.)
by A. Loggers
Monday, April 22, 2019
Teak Care 5 D. Bivins I've used both varnish and Cetol. Nothing initially looks as sharp as varnish. However, I've gone to using only Cetol. The newer Cetol coatings have come a long way from the days of either very dark coats or an ugly orange. I use three coats of Cetol Natural Teak and then two coats of Cetol Marine Gloss. One coat of Gloss is sufficient, two is better. The Gloss gives the teak a shine akin to varnish. The advantages of Cetol are: 1. more forgiving to apply in nice even coats 2. No sanding required between applications 3. lasts longer than varnish if properly maintained 4. maintained by applying an annual coat of gloss which provides added UV protection 5. when it's time to start over, Cetol is somewhat easier to remove than varnish since it tends to come off in rubbery strips rather than tiny pieces like varish. I've had no experience with some of the newer quick drying varnishes.
by J. Hoey
Saturday, April 13, 2019
Brass care/polish 1 P. Plate The "brass' you refer to is most likely bronze. Over time bronze develops a patina, some find it the charm of that type of hardware generally found on traditionally rigged boats.You can polish it, some say you can even apply a "varnish but I have to ask. Why create more maintenance?
by C. Huberman
Tuesday, April 9, 2019
Questions concerning HA 18 5 L. Bost Hi,I've been restoring my HA 18 for 3 years. I built a tabernacle which, although wonderful for raising the mast, is larger in diameter and has swivel bolt heads that interfered with the existing mast hoops. As a temporary solution, I made parrels using rigging wire and cheap wooden balls from a craft store. They attach to the sail with small climbers snap fasteners. They have worked so well that I haven't bothered replacing them. Easy inexpensive and strong. If you're interested, I'll send you a sketch.
by G. Damerel
Thursday, February 7, 2019
Yanmar 1gm10 install questions 2 R. Langley Re: Propellor for 1GM10. Noted that your post is few years old, but I have a similar question. My '94 Sanderling has a 1GM10 with a 1" shaft, a 2.62 box, and a 10x12RH 2 blade propellor. I am thinking of replacing the propellor and found some discrepancies of the size and pitch used in this application. What are other Sanderling-ers using ?
by M. Lieberman
Friday, January 11, 2019
remove my bow sprit to varnish? 2 R. Roddewig Thanks, will do.
by R. Roddewig
Saturday, November 17, 2018
Menger 19 Deck Hatch 2 M. OLeary I'd give Jerry Thompson from Thompson Boat works a call chances are he ether built your boat or knows who did and what the best way to do what you want. here is his number631-889-2918
by E. Dankievitch
Monday, October 15, 2018
Herreshoff America Blocks and Boom Crutch and Bracket 4 M. Perry Thanks David, but I went with other blocks myself, actually found a complete solution in the used parts section of my local marine store. I was out of there with a complete new set of blocks for my main sheet for about $22.00. I ran like a thief...;-)
by M. Perry
Wednesday, August 15, 2018
Herreshoff America engine fumes in the cockpit 3 M. Cline One of the things I am experiencing with the Honda, is it has a tendency to stall after a hot run or sometimes when running at high speed. Very difficult to start after. Any problems with the Tohatsu?
by C. Downes
Tuesday, August 14, 2018
Menger Owner's Manual 2 N. Tulloh Only thing I have is some excerpts from the Menger 19 manual in PDF.
by D. Olson
Monday, August 13, 2018
Battery charger upgrade 0 R. Roddewig I upgraded my battery charger in my Marshall 22.  But of course this could be any boat. The first photo shows the old battery charger and having labeled some of the cables with masking tape (not great but better than I started with).   I found where the charger tied into the current fuse box and AC system. Wired in the new charger which had a three prong plug meant for an outlet.  In the next image you can see the white, black and green wire from the cord where I have removed the three prong plug and crimped on ring connectors. And finally the battery charged install in the compartment above the batteries (sorry for the 90 degree rotation, I tried a bunch of editing on the site here and could not rotate it). New charger is working great and happy with all the modes it has.  Not a bad project overall.  And nice for me to get familiar with Otter's wiring panel.  Please let me know if you have any questions.
by R. Roddewig
Saturday, August 11, 2018
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