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Replacing scupper in M-22 cockpit 2 R. Roddewig Rod Thanks for the pics, I just finished the retrofit of scuppers into my ‘82 (which had the old style centerboard drains, now filled). I also had some wood panels cut to fit the pass through to the rear bilge area, to help keep the smell from wafting from the bulge water into the cabin. Seeing how the factory scuppers mounted really helped. I went with the one size down scupper from spartan as it fit better in my cockpit.
by M. Poor
Wednesday, February 12, 2020
Bilge Pump Placement 4 J. Seymour Thank you very much, sir. That settles it. I will stick to a hand pump, bailer, and sponge.
by J. Seymour
Friday, January 3, 2020
Topping lift location 2 T. Moorhoff I've tried it both ways. On Marconi rigs the topping lift is always at the end of the boom. On Priscilla, a 60 foot gaff rigged wooden oyster sloop, the lift is at the end of the boom too. The boom weighs 400 pounds and that may be a consideration. When the gaff on Priscilla goes up we have to be watchful of the gaff fouling the topping lift for a longer time because of the placement of the topping lift at the end of the boom.On my Marshall 22 the topping lift is tied the the port side of the mainsheet bale on the boom. Because of the reduced angle, the tip of the gaff clears the topping lift sooner. The disadvantage is that when the topping lift is supporting the boom, it pulls the boom bale forward and this interferes with the boom crutch. I would say where you attach the topping lift is a matter of personal preference. There is no right or wrong place to tie it off.
by R. Campbell
Wednesday, January 1, 2020
Barrier coat for an old Marshall? 2 T. Moorhoff When I bought my 1994 Marshall 22 from the Marshall yard in 2016 they recommended pea blasting and 4 barrier coat layers for any of their boats that would be in the water 12 months each year. When they hauled my boat it did not have blisters, but had been floating low in the water. The scum line was at the top of the standard boot top. I was afraid that the hull had absorbed water. The existing bottom paint was thick and scaling off in patches. I asked the Marshall yard to blast the bottom and apply 4 coats of Interlux barrier coat. This had the advantage of eliminating any worries I had about water absorption and let me start with a smooth coat of ablative bottom paint. When the boat launched it floated on its lines.By the way, I prefer Sea Hawk BioCop ablative bottom paint. It is a little harder surface than other ablatives and a single coat will last the season without growing slime.
by R. Campbell
Wednesday, January 1, 2020
Boom crutch length 4 J. Seymour Thanks for the tip. I have the opposite problem-- I find that I have to take the boom off the crutch and lower it to furl the sail, but on your recommendation, I may cut a longer crutch just to see how it works.Joe
by J. Seymour
Sunday, November 10, 2019
Towing a Herreshoff America: Remove the Rudder? 2 D. MacPherson I have an HA18 and I always remove my rudder and stow it in the bed of my pickup when I tow it back and forth from the marina. I do that for the same reasons mentioned in Peter Knowlton's reply. I think my rudder may weigh a bit more than 50 pounds. I can lift it off of the boat and put it into the bed of the truck myself, but I would prefer to have some help. Oh and I always end up with some bottom paint transfer so a blue tarp in the pick up bed helps with that and makes it easier for me to slide it into place.
by M. Perry
Saturday, November 9, 2019
Looking for centerboard design dimensions for Molly 17 0 A. Cochran Greetings: I recently purchased a 17’ Molly Catboat (built in Richmond, CA 1988).  Much to everyone’s surprise (owner and buyer) a diver determined that the centerboard was missing!  I’m looking for another owner of the same boat with drawings of the centerboard (measurements or a pattern - or someone willing to make one) to have a new fiberglass centerboard shaped and installed.  Fortunately, she has a keel, but we know she’ll sail better with a centerboard!  The boat is located in the San Francisco Bay area. Please contact me at  Thanks you!
by A. Cochran
Friday, October 11, 2019
Tabernacle Issues on Sanderling 3 R. Schless I had success with a very stuck hinge following the advice above, hammering in the wedges and having a friend sit on the boom to keep the mast from lifting in addition to this very simple lever (two boards really) and some string serve as an extra set of hands and keeping parts from falling overboard.  I hope this picture attaches! Dave Holbrook
by D. Holbrook
Sunday, September 29, 2019
Hull number HA18 3 J. Porter Mine is on the port side of transome exterior
by J. Porter
Friday, September 20, 2019
Outboard for HA18 motor well 2 J. Porter Thank you! Are you able to use the part of the cockpit seats that covers the motor or is the four stroke top end to tall.
by J. Porter
Thursday, September 19, 2019
Marshall 22 engine vents 6 M. Poor On my 22 I currently only have one vent hose hooked up. It's attach to the Cowl vent which is facing forward. The other Cowl vent is facing aft and the hose has been removed. The idea is air is forced in thru the forward facing Cowl vent down the hose to low in the bilge. The heat from the engine rises and exits from the Cowl vent with no hose. I've been running like this for the past few years without issue.
by T. Caro
Wednesday, September 4, 2019
Soft deck in cockpit 31 K. Trainor Your post was most timely! I picked up a 50 inch wide roll of fiberglass and a roll of tape last week. Once my plywood order arrives, I can start the next phase of the overhaul.My seats were half inch plywood, so I will go with that.Joe
by J. Seymour
Tuesday, August 27, 2019
Sail cover for my HA18 3 M. Perry Hi folks, thanks for the good advice, including the memory related tip...! I did have Thurston make a cover for me, and Neil Thurston even offered to take some measurements directly from Pixie at her slip, (I keep her in Portsmouth, one town over from Thurston's location in Bristol). These folks have always been awesome to work with, they refurbed my original flag sail a few years ago. I will definitely buy my new sail from them when I can afford it.
by M. Perry
Wednesday, August 14, 2019
Sanderling Wedges 0 N. Truscott Has anyone had experience with SPARTITE MAST PARTNER SUPPORT to replace the wedges on Sanderling mast. Mine keep falling out no matter how hard I bang them in.  I think my mooring is in a location that moves a lot.
by N. Truscott
Monday, July 22, 2019
Small Lapstrake from Plans 0 K. Lewis Are there any building plans for small lapstrake catboats out there? 16 feet or less.   Thanks Kent
by K. Lewis
Monday, July 15, 2019
Sanderling Wedges and Headstay 1 N. Truscott Congratulations on your new boat! I ordered a set of replacement wedges directly from Geoff Marshall. That is the way to go. It will save you a lot of time and energy.Take a look at the maintenance tips section on the Marshall website. There is a paragraph that explains the procedure. You can give them a good bash. Use a white rubber mallet. There are also two wedges that go into the mast step. Joe
by J. Seymour
Monday, July 8, 2019
Mast Hoop Rigging 3 T. Moorhoff Attached is photo oof friends hoop. Older boats used a bronze bow shackle , newer ones use stainless steel. I used tarred synthetic  cod line for my lashing, other us heavy waxed serving thread. About 8 turns through shackle  and hoop, then about 4 turns at 90 degrees to those between shackle and hoop, finish with square knot or surgions  knot.
by P. Knowlton
Tuesday, July 2, 2019
Teak Care 6 D. Bivins If you want to learn more on the subject, I would suggest you pick up a copy of Brightwork: The Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca Wittman, you’ll be an expert!
by M. Poor
Thursday, June 20, 2019
Converting a catboat to electric power 5 K. Sloan Turns out my little Tecumseh HAS gone the distance and I have taken it out of the boat. I plan to sell the boat and am looking for info the help the potential buyers to assess the cost/difficulty of repowering with an outboard or electric setup. Essentially something to get in and out of a boat landing. We are mostly lake sailors here with fairly short cruises and used to dealing with crowded landings and lots of impatient powerboats.Thanks, Ken
by K. Sloan
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
where is the bulkhead/cockpit joint on a marhall 22? 3 R. Roddewig The seam basically runs along where T.'s hole is. The cockpit is essentially a fiberglass tub placed in, so it is the seam joining the horizontal surface of the cockpit floor to the vertical surfaces of the CB trunk and the cabin bulkhead. To access that seam you must remove any caulking around the aft CB trunk (where it sticks out in to the cockpit by your scuppers), and you can go up through the ballast boxes (steps) and reach back and up. I repaired the leak in mine my by glassing the entire seam in, as mine was tabbed in and sealed with marine caulk around the CB trunk (but mine is an '82, so there could be slight differences here). My leak was right where the junction of the cockpit floor and the CB trunk are, along a seam that appears solid. A leak there however will drip into the upper bilge area as you saw, so unless it is getting so full that it spills over into the ballast boxes (which have limber holes forward to under the floor) it's probably not the source. This is possible though (the previous owner of mine let this happen all the time over a few years and almost destroyed the floor). Some thoughts (apologies if you have tried already)- Is your mast taped and covered with the boot? Portholes? If they are original the seals are getting pretty old. My leaky porthole gave zero (and I mean zero) indication of a leak (no marks, discoloration etc). I found it when it was raining. Handrails, hardware, basically any place where the cabin top has something going through it can be a source. Can you run a hose over the top of the boat with someone inside or sit in the boat when it is raining? Good luck and let us know what you find!
by M. Poor
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
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