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Soft deck in cockpit 17 K. Trainor I thought I'd share some of my progress for others to reference.  I got the benches out two weeks ago and this past weekend I removed the sole.  I had intended to just cut out the visible rot and leave the rest but the more I looked the more delaminated fiberglass I found.  I decided to cut around the perimeter of the sole with an oscillator tool and then peel off all of the fiberglass using a flat prybar.  I'm glad I did that because I found more rot in the sole hidden beneath the plywood.  Luckily, all of the stainless steel screws fixing the sole to the stringers were visible and in good shape so all I had to do to pull the sole was take them out.  Unsurprisingly, the stringers are also waterlogged and at least one of them needs to be patched or replaced.  My next step is to remove all of the insulation/bouyancy to let things dry out.  If I'm lucky then most of the stringers can be repaired with epoxy rather than replaced completely.  We'll see once things are dry.  Interestingly, the insulation I found under the sole was loose foam beads.  In my research preparing for this project I've seen rigid foam similar to A. Logger's boat and also something that looks like fiberglass.  I suppose Marshall probably tried a few things over the years.  I'd be curious to hear what they are using today...
by T. Moorhoff
Monday, April 15, 2019
Teak Care 5 D. Bivins I've used both varnish and Cetol. Nothing initially looks as sharp as varnish. However, I've gone to using only Cetol. The newer Cetol coatings have come a long way from the days of either very dark coats or an ugly orange. I use three coats of Cetol Natural Teak and then two coats of Cetol Marine Gloss. One coat of Gloss is sufficient, two is better. The Gloss gives the teak a shine akin to varnish. The advantages of Cetol are: 1. more forgiving to apply in nice even coats 2. No sanding required between applications 3. lasts longer than varnish if properly maintained 4. maintained by applying an annual coat of gloss which provides added UV protection 5. when it's time to start over, Cetol is somewhat easier to remove than varnish since it tends to come off in rubbery strips rather than tiny pieces like varish. I've had no experience with some of the newer quick drying varnishes.
by J. Hoey
Saturday, April 13, 2019
Brass care/polish 1 P. Plate The "brass' you refer to is most likely bronze. Over time bronze develops a patina, some find it the charm of that type of hardware generally found on traditionally rigged boats.You can polish it, some say you can even apply a "varnish but I have to ask. Why create more maintenance?
by C. Huberman
Tuesday, April 9, 2019
where is the bulkhead/cockpit joint on a marhall 22? 0 R. Roddewig Hi all, I have had Otter an 1988 Marshall 22 for a couple of years.  She has always had fresh water accumulate in the cabin bilge.  I looked for leaks and thought I had found the source but no.  I was reading an online review of the boat from one of the magazines like Good Old Boat or such that counseled that some of the Marshall 22's had leaks at the cabin bulkhead cockpit joints over time that would lead to water in the cabin bilge.  I must admit that I have not done an extensive search for this joint but would love to figure out how to renew the seal at the joint so that my cabin bilge and plywood stringers stay dry.  Anyone able to tell me how to access it and seal (assuming 5200 but I am good with any approach). Thanks in advance. Robbin
by R. Roddewig
Saturday, February 16, 2019
Questions concerning HA 18 5 L. Bost Hi,I've been restoring my HA 18 for 3 years. I built a tabernacle which, although wonderful for raising the mast, is larger in diameter and has swivel bolt heads that interfered with the existing mast hoops. As a temporary solution, I made parrels using rigging wire and cheap wooden balls from a craft store. They attach to the sail with small climbers snap fasteners. They have worked so well that I haven't bothered replacing them. Easy inexpensive and strong. If you're interested, I'll send you a sketch.
by G. Damerel
Thursday, February 7, 2019
Yanmar 1gm10 install questions 2 R. Langley Re: Propellor for 1GM10. Noted that your post is few years old, but I have a similar question. My '94 Sanderling has a 1GM10 with a 1" shaft, a 2.62 box, and a 10x12RH 2 blade propellor. I am thinking of replacing the propellor and found some discrepancies of the size and pitch used in this application. What are other Sanderling-ers using ?
by M. Lieberman
Friday, January 11, 2019
remove my bow sprit to varnish? 2 R. Roddewig Thanks, will do.
by R. Roddewig
Saturday, November 17, 2018
Menger 19 Deck Hatch 2 M. OLeary I'd give Jerry Thompson from Thompson Boat works a call chances are he ether built your boat or knows who did and what the best way to do what you want. here is his number631-889-2918
by E. Dankievitch
Monday, October 15, 2018
Herreshoff America Blocks and Boom Crutch and Bracket 4 M. Perry Thanks David, but I went with other blocks myself, actually found a complete solution in the used parts section of my local marine store. I was out of there with a complete new set of blocks for my main sheet for about $22.00. I ran like a thief...;-)
by M. Perry
Wednesday, August 15, 2018
Herreshoff America engine fumes in the cockpit 3 M. Cline One of the things I am experiencing with the Honda, is it has a tendency to stall after a hot run or sometimes when running at high speed. Very difficult to start after. Any problems with the Tohatsu?
by C. Downes
Tuesday, August 14, 2018
Menger Owner's Manual 2 N. Tulloh Only thing I have is some excerpts from the Menger 19 manual in PDF.
by D. Olson
Monday, August 13, 2018
Battery charger upgrade 0 R. Roddewig I upgraded my battery charger in my Marshall 22.  But of course this could be any boat. The first photo shows the old battery charger and having labeled some of the cables with masking tape (not great but better than I started with).   I found where the charger tied into the current fuse box and AC system. Wired in the new charger which had a three prong plug meant for an outlet.  In the next image you can see the white, black and green wire from the cord where I have removed the three prong plug and crimped on ring connectors. And finally the battery charged install in the compartment above the batteries (sorry for the 90 degree rotation, I tried a bunch of editing on the site here and could not rotate it). New charger is working great and happy with all the modes it has.  Not a bad project overall.  And nice for me to get familiar with Otter's wiring panel.  Please let me know if you have any questions.
by R. Roddewig
Saturday, August 11, 2018
Minuteman Catboat 3 K. Conger The minuteman is pure fiberglass except for the coaming, rub rails, and teak seats.
by K. Katz
Monday, July 30, 2018
Looking for a centerboard winch 0 W. Watson Trying to find a winch like the one in the picture below. I took this picture from a video I saw on line. Can’t seem to find it again or the winch? Thanks...Bill
by W. Watson
Tuesday, July 3, 2018
second reef point 1 R. Schless Beau: reef line appears fouled on opposite side of boom (old cleat?). Try attaching bitter end to forward boom bail to tension leach. Try reefing on tack, same side ss reef line. Your pic, 2nd reef, port tack.
by P. Knowlton
Wednesday, June 27, 2018
Reefing Upgrade Concerns 2 E. Grant Lots of good points from an experienced catboat sailor is just what I was looking for. Will certainly consider these factors in my installation. I'm particularly concerned about the Vang effect, and cabin top loading you mention. If you have any photo of you're installation, I would appreciate seeing them.ThanksEric
by E. Grant
Thursday, April 26, 2018
HA18 cockpit drain leak 2 G. Damerel Thanks. I just bought both the cockpit drain and thru hull ( with valve) and will modify this in the spring. It's a real annoyance in a otherwise tight boat and only leaks when the boat pounds and water is forced up the trunk. Appreciate the input!George
by G. Damerel
Monday, December 11, 2017
Herreshoff America Centerboard Issue 2 D. MacPherson Just pull the line till it is all off the drum, hold the drum and put another loop or two of line back on the drum and pull it up the rest of the way.
by C. Huberman
Saturday, December 9, 2017
Electrical Switch/Fuse Panel for Marshall Sanderling 3 R. Rapp Thank you both very much guys. These are some good ideas that I plan to put to good use. Maybe we can talk more at the meeting in January. Best, Ron
by R. Rapp
Sunday, December 3, 2017
Tabernacle Issues on Sanderling 2 R. Schless Comments from Geoff Marshall:"While the marine grease works well initially, we find that it gets sticky over time. I would recommend wiping off as much of the grease as you can get to, then spraying it with WDS-40 or CRC to break down any of the residue. At this point it is a good idea to go up and down with the mast a few times to make sure it is operating properly,. We recommend a Teflon spray such as McLube or SailKote as a lubricant for the hinges. It goes on dry so it wont attract an grit or get sticky. You can certainly fashion some type of fulcrum to lift the mast if it is putting up a fight. Just make sure the mast wedges are knocked in securely ad that you have someone behind the mast to control the drop. The foredeck is strong enough to take the pressure."
by R. Schless
Tuesday, November 28, 2017
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