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Soft deck in cockpit 30 K. Trainor The white was just the primer but I also liked it a lot.  I considered sticking with it but in the end I decided to go with the conventional "sundown buff" from Interlux.  Hopefully it doesn't need to be cleaned as often as white would. As for materials, here is what I used for the sole.  It doesn't include stuff I bought to do the cabin bulkhead or benches in the future.  There was also some PT lumber and rough cut locust which I used for modifications to the stringers. - 10 yards of 12oz biaxial fiberglass (50in wide roll) for the skin over the plywood.  It was the perfect amount for two layers.  A slightly narrower roll would have been OK, too, as there was quite a bit of overlap in some places. - 21 yards of 6oz woven fiberglass tape (6in wide roll) for the tabbing between the sole and the hull.  This was just enough for two layers all around the sole. - 2 sheets of 4ftx8ft 1/2in marine grade plywood for the sole.  - 2 cans of West System filleting blend for the fillets between the sole and the hull. - About a gallon worth of microspheres which a friend gave me.  I used them for faring the sole. - About 3 gallons of West System epoxy.  In hindsight, I think I should have just bought the larger container.  It would have saved me some trips to the marine supply shop and probably a bit of money. If you plan to do the benches or stringers then you'll need 3/4" plywood (like you said).  You could probably do all of the stringers with two sheets.   I am pretty sure that the benches can both be cut from a single sheet.
by T. Moorhoff
Thursday, August 15, 2019
Sail cover for my HA18 3 M. Perry Hi folks, thanks for the good advice, including the memory related tip...! I did have Thurston make a cover for me, and Neil Thurston even offered to take some measurements directly from Pixie at her slip, (I keep her in Portsmouth, one town over from Thurston's location in Bristol). These folks have always been awesome to work with, they refurbed my original flag sail a few years ago. I will definitely buy my new sail from them when I can afford it.
by M. Perry
Wednesday, August 14, 2019
Hull number HA18 0 J. Porter I have a 1974 HA18 hull id number TSPHA3050474 Does this mean hull#3 05/04/74 or hull number 305 04/74 Thanks
by J. Porter
Tuesday, August 13, 2019
Outboard for HA18 motor well 0 J. Porter All, i have seen previous posts about this subject about they were vague or for older models. I was looking to see if current year yamaha 6 will fit in well. I have an old yamaha two stroke that has sadly passed away. I think it was a 15"shaft and had hookup for charging my battery. Any input to what is the best bet would be greatly appreciated!!
by J. Porter
Thursday, August 1, 2019
Sanderling Wedges 0 N. Truscott Has anyone had experience with SPARTITE MAST PARTNER SUPPORT to replace the wedges on Sanderling mast. Mine keep falling out no matter how hard I bang them in.  I think my mooring is in a location that moves a lot.
by N. Truscott
Monday, July 22, 2019
Barrier coat for an old Marshall? 0 T. Moorhoff I've got a 1985 Marshall Sanderling which needs new anti-fouling.  I have not inspected for blisters yet but will.  When talking about the project, my local marina suggested adding barrier coat for a significant up-charge.  I've read up on the subject and have seen some conflicting opinions.  None of them say it's bad, just that it may not be warranted.  My boat is what you might call a fixer-upper so I am not looking for the Cadillac.  The Ford option will do just fine. So what say you fiberglass catboat owners?  Do you have barrier coat on your boats or do you just keep up your anti-fouling regimen?
by T. Moorhoff
Monday, July 15, 2019
Small Lapstrake from Plans 0 K. Lewis Are there any building plans for small lapstrake catboats out there? 16 feet or less.   Thanks Kent
by K. Lewis
Monday, July 15, 2019
Marshall 22 engine vents 5 M. Poor Hose on the water tank after removing from deck fitting, deck fitting from the locker looking like gods flashlight, top of deck fitting  and the vent hose headed in back of the boards on the port side that cover the water tank.  The hose terminates in the lower part of the bilge not attached to anything, just adding ventilation.
by R. Roddewig
Sunday, July 14, 2019
Sanderling Wedges and Headstay 1 N. Truscott Congratulations on your new boat! I ordered a set of replacement wedges directly from Geoff Marshall. That is the way to go. It will save you a lot of time and energy.Take a look at the maintenance tips section on the Marshall website. There is a paragraph that explains the procedure. You can give them a good bash. Use a white rubber mallet. There are also two wedges that go into the mast step. Joe
by J. Seymour
Monday, July 8, 2019
Mast Hoop Rigging 3 T. Moorhoff Attached is photo oof friends hoop. Older boats used a bronze bow shackle , newer ones use stainless steel. I used tarred synthetic  cod line for my lashing, other us heavy waxed serving thread. About 8 turns through shackle  and hoop, then about 4 turns at 90 degrees to those between shackle and hoop, finish with square knot or surgions  knot.
by P. Knowlton
Tuesday, July 2, 2019
Teak Care 6 D. Bivins If you want to learn more on the subject, I would suggest you pick up a copy of Brightwork: The Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca Wittman, you’ll be an expert!
by M. Poor
Thursday, June 20, 2019
Converting a catboat to electric power 5 K. Sloan Turns out my little Tecumseh HAS gone the distance and I have taken it out of the boat. I plan to sell the boat and am looking for info the help the potential buyers to assess the cost/difficulty of repowering with an outboard or electric setup. Essentially something to get in and out of a boat landing. We are mostly lake sailors here with fairly short cruises and used to dealing with crowded landings and lots of impatient powerboats.Thanks, Ken
by K. Sloan
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
where is the bulkhead/cockpit joint on a marhall 22? 3 R. Roddewig The seam basically runs along where T.'s hole is. The cockpit is essentially a fiberglass tub placed in, so it is the seam joining the horizontal surface of the cockpit floor to the vertical surfaces of the CB trunk and the cabin bulkhead. To access that seam you must remove any caulking around the aft CB trunk (where it sticks out in to the cockpit by your scuppers), and you can go up through the ballast boxes (steps) and reach back and up. I repaired the leak in mine my by glassing the entire seam in, as mine was tabbed in and sealed with marine caulk around the CB trunk (but mine is an '82, so there could be slight differences here). My leak was right where the junction of the cockpit floor and the CB trunk are, along a seam that appears solid. A leak there however will drip into the upper bilge area as you saw, so unless it is getting so full that it spills over into the ballast boxes (which have limber holes forward to under the floor) it's probably not the source. This is possible though (the previous owner of mine let this happen all the time over a few years and almost destroyed the floor). Some thoughts (apologies if you have tried already)- Is your mast taped and covered with the boot? Portholes? If they are original the seals are getting pretty old. My leaky porthole gave zero (and I mean zero) indication of a leak (no marks, discoloration etc). I found it when it was raining. Handrails, hardware, basically any place where the cabin top has something going through it can be a source. Can you run a hose over the top of the boat with someone inside or sit in the boat when it is raining? Good luck and let us know what you find!
by M. Poor
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
Free Used Boat Part Search Now Available for Catboaters 4 D. McQuilken For you newbies, this post dates from 2015 and we are still in business (if you can call providing a free service a business)BTW - Start with this home page not the old link:
by D. McQuilken
Friday, May 31, 2019
Replacing scupper in M-22 cockpit 0 R. Roddewig Hi sailors I had a leaking drain (scupper) in my cockpit that was contributing to water in the forward bilges under the cabin.  Turned out that the PO had caulked/poly adhesived the backing plate to the underside of the cockpit along with the scupper.  The backing plate had cracked and the whole thing was flexing the leaking.  The photos below show the replacement in case anyone else needs to work on this or has this problem.   First photo shows the backing plate covered with caulk, second after removing the caulk (or probably the other side).  Third is new backing plate with hole for scupper after epoxy coating the oak piece.  Should have epoxied after the hole was in, doh!  The coated with two coats of Petit epoxy paint (including the hole).  And finally installed in the boat with Total Boat thickened epoxy to hold it in and Boat life caulk on the scupper, ready to insert and hook up the hose to the drain.
by R. Roddewig
Wednesday, May 29, 2019
Nanni 2.10 Engine Oil 2 P. Jordan Thanks Marc!
by P. Jordan
Friday, May 24, 2019
Boom crutch length 0 J. Seymour Can anyone tell me the length of a Sanderling's boom crutch?  I, um, lost mine.  
by J. Seymour
Thursday, May 2, 2019
Rub Rail Replacement (non teak) 0 A. Loggers Our '65 Sanderling's rub rail is in need of replacement.  Prior to Marshall's fine addition of teak rub rails, older vessels may have a rub rail of vinyl or plastic material screwed every 12" or so around the boat's perimeter to hide the junction of hull and deck...and perform some preventative function.  Now, I'm in search for a reasonably priced (i.e. non stainless steal) option.  If you've replaced the rub rail, please share your material and experience.  Current pics attached (including the creative wood section repair).  Fisheries Supply in Seattle has a selection.
by A. Loggers
Monday, April 22, 2019
Marshall Sandpiper centerboard pennant 2 G. Schuchart Yes, I'm faced with replacing my Sanderling pennant and was seeking ideas.  W/o reading this tread or viewing Marshall Marine's photo  of the kind gentleman crew replacing the pennant while the centerboard swung below the raised vessel...I wouldn't have heaved and hoed so much. But I did, and Voilà! An eye appeared and I struggled to get this flat screwdriver to support...Geoff is probably cringing, for I suspect some unlucky soles have broken/chipped fiberglass where my screwdriver now rests.  Luckily...mine didn't an hasn't. Now to splicing...  What type line did folks use? (*pic is of original owner's work requiring replacement.)
by A. Loggers
Monday, April 22, 2019
Brass care/polish 1 P. Plate The "brass' you refer to is most likely bronze. Over time bronze develops a patina, some find it the charm of that type of hardware generally found on traditionally rigged boats.You can polish it, some say you can even apply a "varnish but I have to ask. Why create more maintenance?
by C. Huberman
Tuesday, April 9, 2019
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